Granada – Tapas - I’ve been there and I ate a lot!

Granada

Yes, we have seen the circus three times on the way around the roundabout!  After going in circles for 1 hour + with our automatic human Hungarian map (our friend Tamas) we arrived to Granada. Granada – the place of history and food - viva Andalucía! That’s at least what I was after originally as always.

We started our journey nowhere else than in tapas bars. Prawn pil-pil, small grilled sardines, patatas bravas, calamares fritos, queso y jamon! The Spanish most certainly know what goes well with their wine! And what a delicious wine it is! The red liquid heated me up for the rest of the evening that I completely forgot to take pictures. The atmosphere completely absorbed my soul and ate me up. The only thing that was left from me was laughter and hunger for more food. I am glad my friends were not far behind with the bloody drink of most Mediterranean feasts.

I woke up the next day surprisingly without a headache, but starving again. We finished all our junk food cookies and chips left from our late night no sense making conversation and we headed off to the streets of Granada. We arrived on a square full of people looking for the same thing like us – full plate of churros and steaming fragrant cups of hot chocolate like nowhere else. I must admit that my Spanish friend was right telling me that hot chocolate in Belgium is nothing compared to the Spanish one. Belgium’s pralines are amazing, but shame on them their hot chocolate is just milk infused with chocolate. During 6 months the only place close to real hot chocolate was Wittamer’s.

After inspecting the cathedral, the ethnic market, watching 1st of May demonstrations and trying to get inside Alhambra our hunger reached the levels of torture. We spend some time enjoying the amazing mountain and city view from one of the hotels right below but the possible sensation of food was driving us back. 

The best view!

Wandering around took us to a place where they offered us more than satisfying possibility: grilled meat platter. Nothing against our student prepared canteen food but we all suffer from some protein deficiency. It was delicious mix of everything one can possibly imagine: lamb chops, grilled chorizo, black pudding, pork medallions... yummy!

Very meaty feast...

After this meaty feast I slept most of the way back to the coast. Thanks to our Hungarian navigation this is forever saved in one of the phones. I think taking photos of people sleeping should be forbidden! I loved the tapas (pil pil remaining an all-time favourite) and I want to come back. Especially to see real corrida – I know the poor beastly things suffer but it is the part of culture – at least once!

Granada's old town

From Spain to the delicious Taubenkobel in Austria!

It takes about 9 hours at the airport without sleeping and three hour flight for me to eat something amazing. A real treat was awaiting me on my way home for Easter holiday - short visit to Austria and especially Taubenkobel - a Relais & Châteaux hotel with continuously awarded restaurant. I was so excited that sleep deprivation didn't exist in my world. 

Taubenkobel is one of those beautiful examples showing how a restaurant even in such a small village such as Schutzen/Gebirge can work and thrive . The little boutique hotel has an adjoining shop and little garden inviting it's visitors for a bit of exploration. It is a little place to eat, buy interior decorations or treat yourself with special local produce. I have to admit that it is a very charming little idea.

The shop

The garden even though it was still chilly outside gave one an impression of romantic, but planned disorganization as well as of everlasting peace. Unfortunately, we were very unlucky and didn't find any Easter eggs hidden behind the bushes or colourful pillows in the garden. 

The garden

Finally, we moved to the heart of the restaurant and I suddenly found myself in heaven. In the heaven of perfect service and delicious exciting food. The waiting staff definitely knows what they are serving and why is every single element on the plate prepared in the way it is. The table set up is charming and the overall atmosphere just breathes and lives comfort and peace. You just feel like a spoiled lazy cat on a soft pillow in a warm cosy countryside cottage. 

Teble set up 

Local corn caramelized pop corn with charcuterie

Most certainly we didn't protest to be served  little appetizers and amuses before digging into some of the more refined and more complex plates. Caramelized pop corn, local charcuterie and speck, three kinds of home made butters (nuts, salty, smoked fish) and hot white bread right from the oven.  I remember my first bite of the bread with melting butter and how my eye lids slid down in the sudden sensation of ultimate pleasure. 

Home made butter - salty, smoked cod and nuts flavours 

This moment of pleasure was followed by another completely new experience - frog's leg in chervil sauce. It was the first time I have tasted frog and even though some of you might think I am just crazy it was an absolutely delightful little bite of freshness and smoothness at the same time. One of the favourite bites of my life! 

Frog's leg in chervil sauce

Following the Easter theme another favourites of the afternoon arrived to the table in a little paper egg box. A take on de-constructed egg served in the original shell. The egg has been de-constructed in a beautiful layered manner - speck egg yolk cream followed by horseradish foam and topped off with frozen yoghurt powder. The egg yolk cream with the horseradish foam is a marriage made in heaven! Lots of love going on in that little shell! 

De-constructed egg 

After all these little treats I couldn't feel more excited about what was yet to come. Fresh water crayfish served on a bed of fresh herbs, green apple, sheep's milk panna cotta and watercress sauce. It looked like a piece of art and tasted so refreshing. I have been analysing this plate with a glass of perfectly matched Gruner Veltliner in hand and I hope all the components identified correspond to the reality. 

Crayfish served on a bed of fresh herbs, green apples,  sheep's milk panna cotta and watercress sauce

The fish course was poached perch with fennel, dandelion and little bacon cubes. The perch has been followed by a black feather rooster with young leek and black root foam. I still wonder how did they make the skin so flat and crispy - I am thinking of squeezing my chicken under a flat baking tray next time. 

Poached perch with fennel, dandelion and little speck cubes

Black feather rooster with young leek and black root

With main courses over a little refresher arrived on a rustic wooden plate - A glass of carrot sorbet with no added sugar and cinnamon macaroon. I have to say that the sorbet was the least favourite thing out of the whole afternoon, however the macaroon was just perfect. Living in Belgium for six months and having a friend in France obsessed with macaroons I have already eaten some in my life, but this one was just perfect. 

Carrot sorbet and cinnamon macaroon 

The main dessert came picture ready served in Martini glass with colourful spring edible flowers on the top. It was a mixture of candied and jellied figs accompanied by dried cream. It was very interesting and light molecular experiment, but for a strong flavour dessert lover like me it was a little bit too light and I kept on thinking where my real dessert is. 

Candied and jellied figs with dried cream

My little bite of satisfaction came just a few minutes later in the form of a little cornet miniature and a dark chocolate praline. Unfortunately, the base jelly was too hard and didn't make a good enough match to the Irish coffee praline which just melted in my mouth. However, the crispy cornet with its lemon curd zing filling and cute meringue cap was just perfect. What a feast with a perfect finish! 

Lemon curd and meringue cornet and Irish coffee dark chocolate praline

This beautiful Austrian experience will stay with me forever as a very beautiful dream come true and as a source of indescribable inspiration. I most certainly didn't want to leave, but my home and my grand parents were waiting for me for almost seven and half months - no excuses there! I hope you had an amazing Easter too!

Austrian village

Cadiz and the market!

There are some moments in life that you would like to forget. There are some moments you wouldn't exchange for anything else. I wouldn't change the view of Africa when travelling to Cadiz for anything else. It is the time when you get excited by the beauty and symbolic meaning of such view. Travels far, far away were always attractive and exciting, but when they come into real life it is even more amazing.

The view of Africa

The desire to stay and absorb all the stunning powerful beauty was almost irresistible, but I was on my way to Cadiz. The city of history and wonderful food! The city full of life! Straight after parking I asked with my very basic Spanish skills where can I find the market. I didn't want to waste any time. However, a pause to look at the sheerness of the sea was necessary. It presented itself with such an amazing spectrum of blues and turquoise colors that my eyes traveled all across and continued up to the clear sky. The warmth upon my face calmed me down and cleared my mind.

Streets of Cadiz

 I had to go on with my market search mission though. I couldn't even follow the instructions I have received from the gentleman I asked for all the stands with caramelized almonds, freshly toasted seeds. The little old town alleys were filling up fast with children in colourful costumes and music. The city was a venue for families and people were ready to enjoy the day. The positive attitude is simply fascinating. I finally arrived at my destination. Food naturally attracts me I guess.

Streets of Cadiz

Spanish street food

 If you want to see fresh fish you need to come here. Big portions of tuna and swordfish will just take your breath away and little prawns and squids will make for the best lunch. I was amazed by the skill of the stand owners. Fish filleted with such skill and to perfection is very uncommon. It was better than most plays I went to see in theatre. While filleting the owners were calling out how fresh their product was or just merely singing a song that they liked.

Maket in Cadiz

Market in Cadiz

 I regretted the fact that I don't have a kitchen in Spain more than ever before. The desire to take a murena and snails back home with me and try how they taste was so strong. I have already tasted snails, but murena would have been completely new to me. I am sure I will come back. I will come back for the smell of fresh sea, for the salted hams and homemade cheese and for the unique atmosphere.

Market in Cadiz

Simple Spanish lunch

Simple Spanish lunch 

 I had to leave Cadiz and its streets just to transfer to Puerto de Santa Maria. Once I didn't go somewhere just to visit a food market or friends. I went to see flamenco. All-together I have spent one year in Spain and I didn't see any real flamenco yet. I loved Puerto de Santa Maria, the port that gave name to one of Columbus's famous boats. The podium was passing on the sounds of women's heels far across and the sun fell upon the faces of very confident and strong girls, women and the crowd that came to watch. I call that a real cultural injection - not like any concert back home!

Flamenco in Puerto de Santa Maria 

Flamenco in Puerto de Santa Maria

Flamenco in Puerto de Santa Maria 

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